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Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

Started by Clewisiii, January 20, 2020, 09:10:55 AM

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Cadman-iac

 If you don't mind my asking, what kind of sandblaster do you use for in your shop, and what pressure do you run for it?
 I've got an old unit that my dad used to use that looks like a big boiler tank and it'll take 150 psi and probably 2 bags of sand, which is waaaay too much for use inside.
 I like the results from sandblasting, it saves a lot of work and elbow grease.

 Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

Quote from: Cadman-iac on September 09, 2024, 05:30:49 PMIf you don't mind my asking, what kind of sandblaster do you use for in your shop, and what pressure do you run for it?
 I've got an old unit that my dad used to use that looks like a big boiler tank and it'll take 150 psi and probably 2 bags of sand, which is waaaay too much for use inside.
 I like the results from sandblasting, it saves a lot of work and elbow grease.

 Rick

Right now I am in an enclosed hut and just using a hand held spot blaster. Using the black diamond media. I have a 60 gallon air tank working at about 80 PSI.

In the past I was using a 60 pound pressure pot inside of my old garage. That was a mess and I do not recommend it.

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When I first did the whole car I laid down an area of plywood and curtained off a section of my yard.  I would shovel up and filter the sand to reuse it. I went through 300 pounds of sand and had to rent a towable air compressor to do it. I did the whole car in a day like this. 

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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Cadman-iac

  That's the best way to do it, all at once, but there's always something that gets forgotten and you have to go back and do more.

 Thanks for the information, I appreciate it. Gotta get myself a small blaster for the stuff that doesn't fit in the blast cabinet but is too small to break out that huge blaster for. Once it's loaded with sand, even though I put wheels on it, it's a real pain to have to move. And the hose and nozzle are unwieldy. And like you I don't have dedicated place to do it either. I had set up a makeshift wall to try to keep some of the sand from just blowing away, then shoveled it up and strained the dirt and grass out, and ran it through again. When I ran out of the silica sand I went down to the river and loaded up some of the sand there. I don't recommend using regular sand.
 I was using silica sand because it was left over from when my dad was doing it, but it's just too hazardous, and expensive, what exactly is that black diamond media? Is that just the name I'm guessing?

 Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

I get it at Tractor Supply. Not that expensive, and seems to cut good.

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Cheap hand held hopper gun seems to do good for these spots. But it does go through material quick. And still gets everywhere. I guess if you could make a sheet hood directly over yourself and what you are working on it would be cleaner.

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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Cadman-iac

 So it's coal slag as the bag says? I didn't think coal was that hard.
 I've been using copper slag for my blast cabinet, and it works great, but also expensive. You definitely would want to confine it to recover as much as you could.

 Does the hopper sit on top of the gun like an HVLP spray gun, or does it use a pick-up hose to the container? And where did you find it?

 Rick

 
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

Quote from: Cadman-iac on September 09, 2024, 09:09:08 PMSo it's coal slag as the bag says? I didn't think coal was that hard.
 I've been using copper slag for my blast cabinet, and it works great, but also expensive. You definitely would want to confine it to recover as much as you could.

 Does the hopper sit on top of the gun like an HVLP spray gun, or does it use a pick-up hose to the container? And where did you find it?

 Rick

 

On top of the gun with an adjustable flow nozzle. Does not blast at an up angle very well.
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Cadman-iac

  Thanks for the info, I'll look into one for myself. I appreciate your time.

 Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

Well I need epoxy primer, but I am broke. So I will take a side step and start restoring the fender skirt brackets and bumper brackets. 


A lot of work on my air compressor, so I keep needing to let it cool off. But this will keep me busy in the evenings for the week.

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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

Well the actual brackets came out nice, I will work on the bolts and mounting plates tomorrow. I may just replace the washers.

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I did the antenna mounting hardware. I need to redo the big bracket. I missed blasting some primer.

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I am missing one semi circle bracket from tge front bumper. My car had been in an accident so they may have lost one. I can get one off my parts car but they are a pain to get to.
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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

The Tassie Devil(le)

When one sees all the little parts that make up a complete car, one wonders just how much these cars would cost these days, what with purchasing everything, and putting the car together, painting, and labour.  Without adding chrome plate to the bumpers, etc, the cars would be out of most peoples' price range.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

Clewisiii

Those bolts took a lot of work to clean. Seemed more difficult then in the past. I may need to change my bead blaster media.
20240911_202121.jpg

And look I found that missing bracket.

20240911_202346.jpg
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

Tedious.

These are done.

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These are up next.

20240912_210746.jpg

These should be good enough to restore.
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But these are questionable. Specifically the nuts, washers, and fine thread bolts will be easier to just replace.
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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

FYI

While working on my rocker the other day, another acorn fell out of the vehicle.

Thousands of acorns have been cleaned and blown out of the body and frame over the years. Each time I find one that becomes the newest "Last Acorn"

In the end the final Last Acorn will be cast in epoxy as a memento. 
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Cadman-iac

  What method or system are you using to coat or treat your hardware?
I've always had to resort to the wire wheel, carb cleaner or bead blast cabinet and a can of paint. Not the best way but beats nothing at all.
I like how your stuff turns out, it looks like it just came from the factory.

Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

Quote from: Cadman-iac on September 13, 2024, 11:33:07 AMWhat method or system are you using to coat or treat your hardware?
I've always had to resort to the wire wheel, carb cleaner or bead blast cabinet and a can of paint. Not the best way but beats nothing at all.
I like how your stuff turns out, it looks like it just came from the factory.

Rick


I bead blast, I wire wheel, I sand, and I acid clean.

This is an acid cleaning with soda water rinse to neutralize.

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Then I built a system based on the Caswell plating chemicals.

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Heated tanks of degreaser, zinc plating electrolyte, and yellow dichromate passivate.

I bought a large zinc ingot that I cut up for my anodes. I wrap them in gauze to prevent them from contaminating the electrolyte ad they dissolve.

20240913_173353.jpg

This is one more thing that I felt I was wasting money on. I have about $1000 into the system. But there are some parts you just cannot replace and no better way to restore.




"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

I went out and bought some replacement nuts, washers, and bolts today for the items I will not be able to restore. They do not carry fine thread carriage bolts, and I know I cut some. So I will restore what I have and continue looking.

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"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Cadman-iac

This is one more thing that I felt I was wasting money on. I have about $1000 into the system. But there are some parts you just cannot replace and no better way to restore.
[/quote]

  From what I can see you haven't wasted anything. Your hardware looks like it was factory done.

When you said soda washed, are you meaning  baking soda and water to neutralize the acids?
A few years ago I was using a vinegar and salt solution for removing rust and the baking soda to neutralize it. The problem with the vinegar/ salt solution is it will eat more than rust if you leave stuff in it for too long. I forgot about a batch of bolts I'd put in it for a few days and had a useless pile of metal when I found it.
So I've been hesitant to try another method or system.
But yours looks like it works great. Thanks for the information.

How big of a tank/bucket do you use for most of your stuff?
Do you do larger items like hood hinges and engine brackets?

Rick
CLC# 32373
1956 Coupe Deville A/C car "Norma Jean"

 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

 Remember,  no matter where you go, there you are.

Clewisiii

I could not do hood hinges, or the Trans linkage. So I had a company near me do that. I am also going to take apart my jack and have them do the mast.
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

I got my authenticity manual today.
20240914_131706.jpg
I did not realize there was a diagram in there for the splash shields. That would have been handy.

20240914_160505.jpg
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering

Clewisiii

Done for the day. My plating tanks were getting hotter then I like them to.
20240914_170827.jpg
But I have very little fasteners left. A little more for the bumpers. Then just stuff for the doors. I am happy that I am seeing real progress. When that paint is done it will mostly just be putting things back on.

There is still a list of things I need to pay for.


$4000 Paint supplies
$2000 Stainless Polishing
$2000 Rubber seals
$1500? AC rebuild
$2000 Tires
$1500 Aluminun Anodizing
$600 Fuel tank
$600 Booster Master Cylinder Rebuild
$300 rear Brake components
$400 rear tail light lenses
$500 Engine Bay Wire Harness

$12000 finish chrome restoration
"My interest is in the future, because I am going to spend the rest of my life there."  Charles Kettering