Laurie's 1970 Fleetwood Brougham Restoration

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

I'm sure your painter means Single stage paint when he says "1 shot": color and gloss all in one but as pointed out you really don't want to buff that and in the case of metallics and pearls, the they are exposed to the elements without a clear coat over top-- but fine for "quickies" as we call them. 

The "2 shot" is probably meant as the base coat (color) clear coat (top coat) systems by different manufacturers.  And generally regarded as a better quality paint system.

Thanks Ken, I feel better now! Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

"Would the correct 'thingy' size be in the shop manual? Which has arrived along with the body manual and sales brochure."

No, but it might be in the Fisher Body Manual --- at least what it looks like.  When you get the letters determine the size of the stud and look through that Restoration Specialties catalog I linked you to earlier.  Or, take it to the body shop that will be doing your work and ask them what clip they would use to retain the letters.  There are a zillion clips (plus or minus a few hundred) out there of all types and sizes, a good clip for yours shouldn't be hard to find.

Once the letters are assembled to the fender, have your shop shoot some black paint on the clips inside the fender (a rattle can will do fine), or you can do it, to keep them from rusting.

Got the body Fisher manual! Great advice on the spray can, I can do that, thank you! Laurie!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

BIG COIN to do it the 'right way', I get that. I also understand this is not a Concours level restoration, I just want the roof to look less crappy. They're on eBay, what do you folks think of this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1970-Cadillac-Fleetwood-Vinyl-Top-4-Door-Sedan-Full-Top/371670316228?hash=item568946f4c4:g:lrkAAOxye3BRyCE4 Which finish would be more correct, the Elk or the Levant?

Did I mention the car is in 4 shows this year and I haven't picked a voke yet to do the body work and paint? One closer to me reached out today, one of their alumni 'made a call', whatever.

*May 20, 2018 at Larz Anderson Auto Museum "Cadillac Day"
*June 17, 2018 at Greater Hyannis Chamber of Commerce Father's Day Car Show
*July 19, 2018 at Bass Pro Shops, Gillette Stadium
*Heritage Museums & Gardens, date TBA (fall) Sandwich, MA

2019
*March - World of Wheels at the Seaport World Trade Center, Boston, MA

I work better under pressure, comes from years of being shot at in the military, LOL!
Laurie!

[chrisntam]

Be sure you use coolant for the old cars.  Not sure what the difference is.  '95 & prior?

[James Landi]

The challenge is simple, what is the condition of the metal roof under the vinyl.  Often happens that vinyl topped cars have serious rust issues, hidden by the top.   We've replaced ours-- "done it ourselves" with an 83 Eldorado, that fortunately had a fiberglass "second roof" fitted over the metal, structural roof.  When we pulled off the vinyl/fiberglass top, we found several rust holes --  all this is to say that you may find additional challenges if and when you remove the vinyl.   Happy day,   James

[35-709]

"They have a 'kit' now with the condensor and points together, good thing?"

NOT a good thing.  Some here have found these Delco (Chinese?) combination points and condenser items to be bad out of the box --- including me, on two separate occasions.  I will not/would not use them, period.

Another good reason, for me, to go electronic. 

Here is another option worthy of consideration ---
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CADILLAC-472-500-PRO-SERIES-Small-Cap-Black-HEI-Distributor-Coil-Spark-Plug-Wire/191789428878?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

This is an HEI unit but smaller than the GM HEI since they keep the coil separate (included in the kit).  Same size as your stock unit which eliminates the belt clearance problems on your year engine that occur when a GM HEI is added.

[WTL]

I did mine myself with the opgi roof, pretty sure it's tuxedo. 

2 problems in addition to some rust  - the opgi seemed to have a bit too much material, I ended up cutting it and tucking it a little, not perfect...and unless your channel trim pieces are perfectly straight, it might cause you to pull your hair out reinstalling those. 

[TJ Hopland]

The correct thermostat for the 472-500-425-368 looks and is pretty typical for American engines except for it has and extra flange disc sort of thing at the bottom.    A Chev one will fit and sort of work but without that flange the bypass passage never gets blocked so you never get full coolant circulation through the radiator.   Lots of cheap crap out there.  I bought my last one from MTS.   I don't have a part number handy but have been told if you are in a rural area there is a John Deere one that is stocked by most dealers. 

The all in one things I think were called uni something.    I think the advantage was just ease of install.   Disadvantage especially these days is its all one assembly so if say the condenser goes bad you have to replace it all.   Standard Ignition brand Blue Streak line is the only brand that has not let me down yet for points.   All the other brands are not what they used to be.  Old stock is great for points but not so much for condensers.

A tool I use all the time for things like PS, rear ends, when you overfill an AT or just about anything.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aia-2000/overview/

For tiny volumes of fluid and 100's of other around the car projects
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/anm-cp7835

Medium volume sucking with an air compressor
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html


 

[Barry M Wheeler #2189]

Laurie, I keep reading your posts. You are unique in that you are moving so fast. Many of us have to plot over years as to how we're going to budget the costs for this and that relative to our cars. You seem to spend your evenings on line looking for stuff for your car and then telling us about what you've done lately.

Keep it up lady, we're on your side. BW

[35-709]

ROTFLMAO   

[cadillacmike68]

That's a nice looking rear end.

We won't send you to the wood shed, but you'll have to prove it! 

1968s look better, especially with a bronze star and airborne wings. 

[cadillacmike68]

AC RC-27 radiator caps are readily available and look better. As for the thermostat itself, and good quality stat 180 deg for the Cadillac 472/500 will be fine.

[cadillacmike68]

But her car body is a Fleetwood. Mine is in my car, but I remember that the spring clips used were one per letter with two holes to grab the pins. And a real PITA to get off.

[35-709]

As mentioned before there are only 2 correct thermostats for the 472/500/425, 185 and a 195.  A lesser GM car "stat" might work but it will not work as the Cadillac engineers intended.  If one wants the cooling system to be correct and predictable, the style thermostat pictured below in #1 should be the only one used.  NAPA, Carquest, etc., will have, or can quickly get, the proper stat for the Cadillac.

Pic. #1  Cadillac 472/500 style thermostat.

Pic. #2  Incorrect thermostat that will fit.

 

[TC]

One more point to add:

Besides the single stage and two stage paint processes already discussed there is another practice used by the quickie production paint shops. This is still a single stage paint paint and process but the last coat has clearcoat mixed with the color. This is called an integrated clearcoat. It gives the paint a bit more gloss and depth. Even with metallics, after painting, I have heard of VERY LIGHT wet sanding possible with like #3000 grit and a polish. Never tried it though.   

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Thanks guys. OK, no 'kit' and I'll look for the proper therm and cap, thanks!

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

We won't send you to the wood shed, but you'll have to prove it! 

LOL! Well any pic posted here has to be a caddy/have a caddy in it so you'll have to wait until the temp goes up 70 degrees for that one! 

[TC]

Seems like with Pertronix you get either a good one or bad one.

I have one that came with one of the cars I own. So far OK.

The HEIs, have either an optical or magnetic trigger. Pertronix is magnetic. A very good aftermarket HEI is the Crane Fireball. It has an optical trigger which is more accurate for spark control and they are reliable. But you have to find a place to hide the small control box for an original look.

I still have points and condensor for all my other cars. If they fail, a spare set,  screwdriver and a matchbook is all I need to get going again 

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Laurie, I keep reading your posts. You are unique in that you are moving so fast. Many of us have to plot over years as to how we're going to budget the costs for this and that relative to our cars. You seem to spend your evenings on line looking for stuff for your car and then telling us about what you've done lately.

Keep it up lady, we're on your side. BW

Barry I'm a petulant, impatient, red headed Capricorn only child who owns her own business and is on vacay until 8Jan when all hell breaks loose with business again. Its crucial that my "i"s are dotted and "t"s are crossed before then. I physically won't have the time after the 8th to devote to the car. All parts/logistics/flight plans have to be filed before then. Did I mention the first car show is in May? yikes...

[chrisntam]

The P & C together were called a "uniset".

Delco D1007 IIRC.